I had the very fortunate opportunity to meet Aboriginal Elder/teacher, story teller and operator of Guurrbi Tours, Willie Gordon. He is one beautiful man.
Photo - Courtesy of Guurrbi Tours
We drove to Gungardie or Cooktown for this specific reason. I went - without Dazla and the children - with Willie and eight others on the Rainbow Serpent walk. It took 5 and a half hours. Willie took us to his ancestral land, to his father's birth cave, rock art sites and taught us about survival, bush food and bush medicine, releasing fear and guilt and how to obtain internal peace. His tours have been described as life changing and it is easy to see why.
Over the period of time I spent with Willie - which was about 7 hours - I took five pages of notes and 600 photographs. For the purpose of this post I have condensed the photographs and will give you the main points of these sacred teachings with Willie's permission. Willie is the story-keeper and I am the story-teller.
Before we left for our trip away our family sat down and talked about what we would like to do. My list was short, walk and meet an Aboriginal teacher. Here in the lands of the Nugal-warra people this need was fulfilled and went beyond expectation.
The first teaching, the look of peace in this man's eyes conveyed his deep spiritual truth, the Rainbow Serpent. Two things are sure in our life, the need for water and sun. When these two combine we have Rainbow or light. The serpent is represented in the flow of the river. Within Aboriginal philosophy they have creation but the creator has no face. The spirit or light, that is life, is known as the Rainbow Serpent. Guurrbi is your own special place, that place you go in your heart, where it is quiet, present, where you know your own spiritual truth. Willie recommends that you go there as often as you can.
"There are as many religions as there are people" Satyananda Saraswati.
Sunset ~ Wahalumbaal Birri
Our walk started early morning here at Nugal.
The traditional owners of this land, went walkabout. They were seasonally nomadic. Certain factors including flowers would trigger the time to go. Before the cyclone and monsoon seasons the people would get ready to go west.
Flowers would bloom and these would syncronise with other conditions to let the people know what was happening within the land. This is an example of tracking.
Other factors in the environment told them information. When the Boxwood eucalpytus tree flowered the barramundi fish slept. A good time to catch them.
Aboriginal people never took from the environment what will not grow back and they never took more than they needed. When the wallabies and kangaroos were birthing they would leave them alone. Then another generation of animals were born and the Aboriginals could eat the older animals.
Willie said that if we understand the environment, we understand life and we survive. He wasn't just talking about this lifetime but the generations to come.
Along the way, Willie taught us about his environment, this place that he knows so well. He said, "Nganthaan-un-bi bubu." "Our land is your land."
We looked at the Bloodwood Tree. The sap that comes out of a bloodwood - is loved by possums and sugar gliders - it is also a handy disinfectant often used by midwives. The sap is mixed together with water to create a type of lather.
The leaves off a soap bush are taken off, torn and mixed with water to create a soapy lather. After it is washed off it leaves the hands feeling soft and smooth.
The Soap Bush is centred, with yellow and green leaves.
The Lomandra or Balga Black Boy's grass, that grows at it's base, is used for weaving bags.
Photo of Dilly Bag - courtesy of Guurrbi Tours
This Bunnga Grass Tree is where witchety or bunnga-ga grubs are found. When sap appears underneath the green follage it indicates that there are grubs. Often the grubs are eaten raw and are high in protein.
Further along the path and then down through this rock face ...
We came to an important cave.
It was raining so we all sat underneath the rock escarpment. Here Willie told us about the most important and oldest art, that of the teacher. The teacher's curriculum vitae, if you like, is indicated by how many lines are across his belly. In this case three are drawn. The teacher has left his hand stencil - of four fingers, indicating his initials.
When we sat under the rock face we naturally formed a circle. Willie said that this was how the teachings were traditionally given, in a circle. Anyone know why? He said that in a circle everyone can see and be seen. He laughed saying that if he put children in rows, the ones up the back would talk and fidget and miss out on the teaching.
The reason that this teacher is painted here is because it is on the path to the birth cave, it is to remind the mothers that the teachings of the environment, the rainbow serpent are the most important, a matter of survival.
As we continued along the track, we walked past this enormous frog. The photo does it no justice as this boulder was over 4 meters high. On the top of it is Tiddalik - the frog who wouldn't laugh. This is a beautiful Aboriginal story which I shared here in Stories on Sundays.
And one last teaching for today.
We were walking towards the birthing cave. A large gully ran along the left side of the huge Tiddalik boulder. Willie stopped the group. He looked at me and said, "Can we change where you were born." No. "Are you Australian?" Um, .... yeah. "Why the hesitancy?"
I have always carried a lot of guilt over the genocide of the Aboriginal people that my ancestors carried out. A lot of guilt. I have done a fair bit of healing too but this walk stirred quite a bit of energy in my belly, things like 'imagine if we had listened to these people and together adopted a system of bush medicine...' Tears quickly sprung up and ran down my cheeks.
Willie said to me that carrying this guilt, like any guilt is totally unneccesary. He had three rocks in his hand. He asked which of the three was my size of guilt, small, medium or large. Medium. He said, "Right this is what we do when we need to let something go." And with that he threw his rock down into the precipice. My rock followed. I felt lighter, more peaceful.
Again he turned to me and said, "Where will you go when you die sister?" Back into the earth. "Yes, where you came from."
More, later, on the birthing cave, placenta burial, death, tee trees, figs and bush coconuts.